Angel, I answered your question on  post # 11964. Did you not see it? Armen Tavy

The correct name for this faux marble is "Cultured Marble". It's a plastc resin mixed like a cake batter then poured into a mold, cured in a special environment and then polished to a sheen. There are several brands of tile setting epoxies that can work, but I'm not going to send you down the road of epoxy to install your mosaic tiles because I can visualize the "car wreck" you would be heading into with "0" experience. Instead I'm going to suggest that you consider an option that might appeal to you, and that is to use my own product to create a suitable surface to tile over that will be easier for you to manage. TAVY "Thin-Skin" Ceramic Tile Underlayment is installed like wallpaper and he main difference is that you place the Glue on the wall instead of on the "paper. check it out on my web site and let me know what you think. If you're comfortable with the instructions, we can talk again with tips and tricks to help you with your project. Tell me how many "raised areas" you have on the walls, if they are not all on a flat plane. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

These tubs are meant for soaking not as a combination shower and tub. Your only option, other than removing and replacing it with a tub that has a built in water deflecting raised lip, is to remove at least one row of tile to modify your installation. I did one such tub by adding a creative waterproof flashing mechanically attached to the tub and continuing up the wall several inches. Of course, you would have to remove existing tiles to add this waterproof flashing. What are your abilities at this point? You might consider what was said at the time of purchase that led you to believe this was an acceptible installation. This is a solution that will work and save you a great deal of money and down time, if you are able to follow my directions. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Schluter says to "use a mortar suitable for the substrate" to install "Ditra" with the fleece side down, but doesn't really go much further then that. Most mortar manufacturers have strict rules about bonding to linoleum and you must follow their instructions completely to be covered by their warranty. No cushion backs ever!! Now, if you decide to pull the linoleum up, you will still have some linoleum remnants and linoleum glue to contend with. I'm also not sure how you intend to go over your "hardwood Floors. Are you going to remove them so everything is (almost) on the same plane? This sounds like considerable footage, will you have a "legal floor" to tile over with two layers of wood (preferably exterior glue plywood) sheeting, minimum 1 1/8" total thickness? Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Cement based grouts have only a one year shelf life in stores. In addition, if it was saved in a "vacuumed" bag, just a little bit longer. Each additional year will break down the Portland Cements ability to hold everything together. If you find clumps of hard cement balls in the grout, forget about the quality and the color. Cement based grouts are purposely designed not have any adhesive qualities or else they would be difficult or impossible to wash off, and washing would also remove to much grout from the joints as well. They are designed to fill a joint/space between tiles, nothing else. Epoxy grouts and polymer grouts do have some adhesive qualities but if Grouts were truly waterproof and had "Adhesion" then we wouldn't need waterproof membranes any more in shower pans, "Roman Tubs", Water Fountains and Swimming Pools. Mold can form underneath the tile substrate for one reason or another, and if I know mold, it can "decay" its way thru or around anything. All mold requires is moisture and a "food source". Mold is as persistent as "weeds" that can grow thru minuscule hairline cracks in sidewalks. Will your saved grout, including the color pigments, still be good after 10 years in storage if it already hasn't turned to mostly to "Rock", there are known cases of "Miracles".  Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Sorry, but "you didn't read my lips" about the "MATCHING LIQUID Latex Additive". AccuColor grout has had positive feedback from users so far, but its only been around for 2 years now, and we will have to wait a little bit longer before drawing final conclusions. I can attest that it is easier to clean with plain water and a 3M pad and the color is "FAST". Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

There are many commercial installations done using quarry tiles that are purposley broken and then installed randomly. You can "break" most of the tiles in advance and then install them in no specific pattern. Pick a tile that has square edges. Try to keep the joints between pieces between 1/4" to "1/2" whenever possible, which also makes it easier to grout. You should sand all the "sharp edges" of the broken tiles. A special "wet" tile sanding stone is available in most tile stores. Use water when sanding and constantly rotate the sanding stone so you don't create a "trench" in the stone. Send a photo when you are done to: spacerman@tavytools.com  because I would love to see how your "vision" turns out. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Only if you want to take forever to finish your installation. I hope you followed all the rules when you installed the "CBU" boards and have selected the right trowel and mortar to install your tiles. Any questions, just ask. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM" 

It depends on the quality of the plaster and its thickness. Use a stiff putty knife with the metal stock that extends up into the handle so you can safely tap on it with a hammer. If chunks of plaster come up with the tiles the holes can be backfilled with tile mortar or patching plaster. The wallpaper should be removed with a solution of distilled white vinegar and warm water. The mold issue is a tough one because there's probably an "organic" food source plus moisture feeding the mold, other than the wallpaper. Check for a small water leak from another room or a pipe in the wall or even condensation moisture from a wall or window air conditioner. Leaving the border tiles in place could make them look like an intentional feature strip. Depending on the size of the grout joint you can hide/conceal the rounded edge of the border tile by placing the new tile tight against the border tile. If this still leaves an obvious larger grout joint, you can cut a 45 degree bevel into the backside of the border tiles, which will allow you to get the tiles closer to the border tiles. Place modified tiles against the border tile the appropriate space using tile spacers or pieces of scrap cardboard until the tiles have "set". You also could remove and save the border tiles for future use by soaking them in warm water then use a stiff blade to patiently remove plaster and bonding agents. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Yes, you can do sections at a time, however, If you have not ended a days work perfectly, the next day is too late to make any corrective adjustments to tiles laid the day before; solution is to check your alignments, use (TAVY) Tile Spacers and place a straight edge up against the last row of tiles so they don't move or "drift". Clean mortar off the floor before laying the straight edge and place a weight behind or on top of the straight edge. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

We have several different brands of floor warming systems that can be installed under your tiles to keep your "Tootsies" warm on the main bathroom's floor, however, a shower floor persay, is never heated and there aren't any other options than ceramic tile. But not to worry because, it takes less than a minute of Hot Shower water to warm the tiles on the shower pan floor before you step in. If your reluctant to install a floor heating system under the tiles in the bathroom itself, then there is an option with a vinyl tile that is designed with an optional grout joint to simulate ceramic tiles. I've just heard of it myself and do not have any feedback yet from users. Like any new product, there is a time lag before we get pro or con feedback. "Flooring America" stores Nationwide do carry one such vinyl floor called "Adura" by Mannington. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

The only 1' x 2' sheets of 2" tiles, that I'm aware of, are made by American Olean or Daltile and the grout joint built into the mosaic sheet is 3/32" and, not just by chance mind you, I designed my 3/32" spacer to be used with those mosaic sheets. Treat the sheet as a solid tile and use one of my 3/32" spacers "cross side down" in the corner of each sheet and another of my spacers, "straight side down", near the middle of each sheet's 2' span. You will get perfect alignment between sheets and any single 2" tiles that you may have to use can be surrounded with my unique spacers to maintain uniformity of the grout joint. www.tavytools.com for sources and click on Mid West Trade Tools or Contractors Direct, they have them in stock and will ship direct. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Grout lines are necessary, as explained in post # 11945. There are no "rules" as to the joint size. This is left to the installer or customer except in cases where the joint is pre-determined when there is an mix of tile sizes in the installation, or when installing gauged slate, which looks best with 1/4". Most seem to prefer a tight joint, 1/32", with marble and granite tiles (butt joints are not recommended). and other ceramic tile including "Porcelain" tile joints can vary from 3/32", 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" and 1/2". Irregular tile sizes will work better with wider joints to allow for the variations. The most popular sizes for ceramic tiles, including Porcelain "Nationwide" is 1/4", with 3/6" as a close runner up. 1/8" is growing in popularity with large format tiles including Porcelain and my TAVY Tile Spacers, because of their unique design, are making the job easier. If your tiles are of the utmost quality in sizeing you can use my 3/32" Spacers, if you really prefer a tighter joint. 1/16" is an option with marble, granite and smaller mosaic and many wall tiles. Remember to follow the "rules" when choosing a trowel design (minimum for floors is 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4"). Many Porcelain tiles require a thin mortar skim coat on their backsides, just before installation. Armen Tavy "TIRTGIM" www.tavytools.com for TAVY Spacer sources.

As long as the tiles are secure, not a big problem, however, it can be difficult or awkward to tile over many tiles and their grout joints. A tile with a slick gloss can also be harder to bond to. If you're determined to tile over tile you should purchase the best "Latex Liquid" Modified Mortar you can find and skim coat the entire floor the day before and then inspect the "bond strength" by trying to scrape it off a tile or two before proceeding with the installation. Another simpler option is to use my "micro thin" TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment which has a written guarantee that says it will bond to any tile without any preperation whatsoever, other than "sweeping", and there is no time delay between application of "Thin-Skin" and tile installation. www.tavytools.com for sources. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Everyone who visits this forum must know by now that as well as being a moderator here I'm also a retired tile contractor/inventor who has a ceramic tile floor underlayment that helps resolves many tiling issues including your dilemma. You dont have to do any prep other than removing any wax that may be present on the asbestos tiles using any brand floor wax remover if you use my own underlayment system. Install my system everywhere first and then creatively raise the level of the lower section by filling with a leveling compound or tapering the transition over a 4 to 8 foot span. Fortunately, because tile mortars love to stick to my underlayment, the transition is easier by spreading extra mortar over my product on the section you want to raise within the perameters I've mentioned and then using a straight edge screed off the excess mortar so the change in height is gradual. www.tavytools.com for sources of TAVY "Thin-Skin Tile Underlayment. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

Absolutely, positively, use a mortar that's designed to work with it's own latex additive, i.e. Mapei Kerabond Keralastic with Keralastic Additive and/or Laticrete's Megabond with Megabond Latex Additive. Positively leave an expansion joint or flexible soft caulk around the perimeter of the room. An epoxy grout by either of the two companies should give you the mold protection you are looking for and make sure you use no less than a 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" or use a larger 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" notched trowel and lightly "Skim Coat" the backs of every tile just before installation. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

If that T/G is 3/4" stock, then you don't have a problem. I would certainly make sure that the 1/2" ply is nailed every 8" in the field and 6" on the perimeters. If you can't tell, then re-nail it anyway. Armen Tavy

This is always a tough question to answer, without proof that the subfloor is only 1/2" thick, I tend to think that you may be mistaken unless you installed it yourself, in which case the reliability of a new installation is always at risk since the recommended minimum subfloor for tile is a total 1 1/8". I have written many times on other post replies that only "Hardibacker" sticks their neck out and guaranties their 1/4 " product over a "minimum" 5/8 subfloor with 16 "OC" floor joists, so you are stretching their "stretch" of the rule with 1/2" or rather 15/32". Marble is even more dependent on "support" than ceramic tiles. However, the floor is small and this can be a deciding factor in your favor, but their isn't a tile man that I know of that would stick his/her neck out with a warranty. It's your call. Raising the floor level a little more shouldn't be a problem if you install a Marble Threshold under the door and trim the door to fit. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM" really applies here.

What is the country of origin? Could it be Indonesia? Your request has also been listed on Google, lets see if it gets you any results? Armen Tavy

It would help all who read your request, if you could give more information: Size of tile; as much info as possible off packaging, including any code numbers; your city and state; the date of purchase and the name of the retail store of purchase, including their phone number; and how many pieces or square feet you are looking for? Armen Tavy

My rep;y tp post # 11939 will hopefully work for you as well. Your grout choice was a good one for durability but not so easy to remove, as you have found. DON'T wait to long to get started. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

 A grout joint is always advisable for sanitation purposes as well as creating a "cushion" between tiles. Tile sizing is not always perfect and a grout joint allows the usually slight variations to be less or hardly noticeable. The greater the variation in tiles sizing the larger the recommended grout joint. Near perfect tiles can be placed closer together, about a 1/8", but rare is the case when ceramic floor tiles can be successfully abutted together, tile against tile, throughout the entire floor installation. Quality grade Marble and Granite tiles are often mistakenly abutted next to one another. The slight bevel around these tiles are there not as an intended grout joint but are beveled to remove the rather sharp edge created when the tiles are cut to size in a rather remarkable precise uniformity. Marble Installation Craftsmen traditionally used "Toothpicks" for spacers, rather than space them the recommended 3/32 inches apart. Installations over concrete substrates allow tighter joints, but installations over suspended wood subfloors usually reqire larger spaces between the tiles since grout in the valley between the tiles created by the bevel can "pop out" due to movements inherent in suspended wood subfloors. A space between the tiles gives the grout the ability to fill, and hopefully completely, into the cavity/space and "lock in". Air unintentionally, but nonetheless carelessly, trapped under grout during the grout spreading process, "can come back to haunt" the installer with customer complaints about grout breakage, crumbling, and "holidays (missing grout). Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"                                                                                                              Note: From your questions I can tell you have very little experience Joe, so please try your "luck" on a small bathroom floor first. Hopefully it's independent from the rest of the flooring project.

The "Kerdi" membrane would go first, then the heat mats secured with a "hot glue gun". The heat mats are then tiled over with sufficient thin-set mortar to set your tiles on a flat plane, or, use a self leveling mix to create a flat floor over the heat mats, let it floor cure, and then install tile in the traditional method/s. Always install tiles over the membrane according to Schluter's instructions to qualify for their guarantee. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

There is a brand new floor grout that is incredibly flexible. It's a polyurethane base with colored glass crystals that create a uniform color that is permanent and the grout doesn't require a sealer. Forgot the brand name, it may be "Bostik". I can check it out by Monday and get back to you then. Hardwood, especially 3/4" toe nailed, is not a recommended substrate to tile over without the addition of some sort of membrane or Cement Boards,"CBU", because the hardwood boards are not fastend securely enough and tend to warp or curl at the slightest introduction of "moisture". Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

A small electric hand held angle grinder designed to hold a 4" "dry cut" diamond tile cutting blade will do the job quickly. Costs can vary from $60 for a "cheapy" to $160 and up for professional models. Some come with a "Blade" assortment and others require an extra expenditure of + - $40. This tool is designed to spin at incredible speeds of 10,000 + RPM, so you have to hold on to them "tightly",  wear eye protection and a dust mask. The cut edges will need some sanding/smoothing with a "tile sanding stone" available most everywhere tile is sold. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"

If you purchased your tiles at a Lowe's or Depot, they will cut it for you on their wet saw. A "Dremel Tool" is hopelessly inadequate. The tile stores should sell a small hand held scribing tool, much like a glass cutter, to score the tiles and then "snap them" by squeezing the tool like a pair of pliers on the "scribe line". Any Marble Slab fabricating shop in your area might also cut them for you for a "couple of bucks". You could replace the wood threshold with a marble one. Armen Tavy, "TIRTGIM"